PRE-BASEL 2018: Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite

Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite

 

44mm case diameter
14mm case thickness
18kt white gold case
Double anti-reflective (AR) coated sapphire crystals
In-house Glashutte Original caliber 89-02 movement
63 jewels
28,800 VPH (4Hz)
3 day power reserve (72 hours)
Custom decorated and finished movement
Polished steel parts and polished blued screws
Three-quarter plate with Glashutte stripe finish
Skeletonized custom rotor with 21kt gold oscillation weight
Adjustment rate by 14kt gold screws
Rate symmentry fine adjustment by double swan-neck spring
Power reserve display
Small seconds (off-center)
Second stop
Panorama Date
Center hours and minutes
Selection of 36 time zones
Time zones include 1/2 hour and 3/4 hour differences
Daylight savings/standard time
Varnish matte white dial
Blue appliques with Arabic numerals
Steel blue hands
50m water resistant
21mm blue Louisana alligator strap
Full tang buckle

The Panorama Date

If you read through the specs on the Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite above, you may have noticed the term “Panorama Date”. Some of you may have even wondered what that was. I know that I did when I first saw the term used. If you are around watches long enough, you’ll find that they are very much like other “expensive” professions. And, as such, they use terms that essentially are designed to say something in a more important or “expensive” way. Like doctors and saying “contusion” instead of bruise. Or a lawyer, in legal writings, using “inter alia” instead of just saying “among others” or “among other things” (and if you are a lawyer or a doctor, please don’t send us hate emails…we are just trying to speak simply here). In the case of the “Panorama Date”, it is just another way of referring to a complication that most of you probably already know…big date. That’s it. It is a dual disc date display where the discs move and operate independently of one another. And, it just so happens, Glashutte Original does have a quick video showing how this mechanism works. For those of you that may be newer to watch collecting, if you have ever wondered how this functionality works, please do take a quick look. It only takes a moment.

Panoramadatum – Glashütte Original

Glashutte Original 89-02 Movement

Diameter: 39.20mm
Jewels: 63
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 28,800 VPH (4Hz)
Date: Big Date (aka Panorama Date) and Day
Hands: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, World Time, Day / Night Indication, Additional 12 Hour Hand (adjustable)
Additional Information: Power Reserve Indicator and Daylight Saving Time (DST)/Standard Time (STD) Indicators

The 89-02 movement utilizes beveled and polished edges, polished steel parts, furnaced blued and polished screws, a skeletonized rotor with 21ct yellow gold oscillation weight, Glashutte three-quarter plate with stripe finish.

“The Swan Neck”

The swan neck or swan neck regulator, along with a beautifully decorated three quarter [top] plate is one of the standout hallmarks of German watchmaking as well as certain other very high end Swiss Made timepieces as well. Some collectors (especially those new to the hobby) might not be familiar with it due to the fact that it usually only seen on very high priced time pieces.

In the most general terms, the swan neck regulator is for the fine adjustment of the regulator. The regulator is designed to control othe overall rate of the watch. It does so by making the hairspring (or balance spring) either longer or shorter. If the hairspring is made shorter, then the watch will run faster as the spring then has less of it to be wound up. If the hairspring is made longer, then the watch will run slower. Via the swan neck regulator, a watchmaker can move the regulator arm in very fine and controlled steps.

Please do note one thing that is often a misconception when it comes to the swan neck regulator. It does NOT control the beat of the movement. The beat of the movement is the percentage of time that the balance wheel spends moving in one direction before it is fully wound and then reverses direction. In this case, think of the “tick” and “tock” sounds that such a movement would make while running.

The image above shows the double swan neck that is used on the Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite. Here you can see the stunning decoration of the 3/4 top plate as well as the intricate and beautiful decoration of the double swan neck.

The image above shows one half of the double swan neck regulator used on the Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite. In addition to the beautiful decoration, you are also able to see (in detail) the mechanism used to perform the regulation of the movement.

The image above shows a conventional [single] swan neck regulator as well as outline and names them main components of the swan neck. While slightly different (and certainly less decorated!) than the Glashutte Original Senator Cosmopolite, the components remain basically the same.

In the image above, the conventional [single] swan neck regulator is shown and how it is used to set the timepiece to run either slower or faster. With this image, it is easier to see how these adjustments perform their desired actions.

If you would really like to “go down the rabbit hole” when it comes to the swan neck regulator, then the video below is exactly what you are looking for. This video comes from Fran Blanche and her Ask Fran Youtube channel. In it, she is showing how to set and regulate one of her pocket watches that utilizes a swan neck regulator. For those that are really into watch movements and/or a DIY type, this is a great video to watch.

Ask Fran: Setting and Regulating Pocket Watches

The video below is from Glashutte Original and shows a version of the timepiece ever so slightly different than the one being referenced in this article. However, all of the major information in it is correct and will provide some additional insight into the Senator Cosmopolite and is certainly worth viewing.

Senator Cosmopolite – Travel around the world …

For those that may not be familiar with the Glashutte Original brand, our friends at “The Gentleman’s Journal” put together a very nice video at a recent Baselworld show in Switzerland and it is certainly one that is worth watching (even if you do know the brand).

A Gentleman's Guide to: Glashütte Original Watches

If you’d really like to “go down the rabbit hole”, the following video is a 0 minute or so deep dive into the brand. It is a few years old (approximately 4 or so). However, it still gives a great look into Glashutte Original and how they operate. If you’d like to learn more and have a few minutes to spare, it would be well worth your time.

Glashütte Original Handmade in Germany 720p

Let Us Hear From You!

Tim and Michael will be at Baselworld in Switzerland again this year for several days. While they do have a very busy schedule of appointments while there along with seeking out new brands to bring into the Talk About Watches family, they are interested in hearing what YOU would like to have them cover. If they can, they would be happy to do so. Please use our custom commenting system below (towards the bottom of the page) and let us know!

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About TAW Staff

The Talk About Watches staff is made up of a diverse group of dedicated watch collectors and enthusiasts with a wide ranging set of skills and interests in horology. They work hard with both Tim and Michael to bring you the most informative and in-depth information from within the watch industry and always attempt to embody the spirit of "Entertain ~ Educate ~ Inform".

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